309SS or ER70S6

[Snag]

My neighbor has asked me to build up a worn spot on the drive pin of
his framing nailer . I'm not sure what model it is . The pin has wear on
the flat side at the tip , and it appears to be from sliding against the
head of the next nail in line . I'm considering using SS for better
abrasion resistance . The pin is not particularly hard , can be marked
with a file , but "mushrooming" in the repaired area is also a
consideration . Replacement pins are available ...

[Jim Wilkins]

"Snag" wrote in message news:v7o9n9$17apc$***@dont-email.me...

My neighbor has asked me to build up a worn spot on the drive pin of
his framing nailer . I'm not sure what model it is . The pin has wear on
the flat side at the tip , and it appears to be from sliding against the
head of the next nail in line . I'm considering using SS for better
abrasion resistance . The pin is not particularly hard , can be marked
with a file , but "mushrooming" in the repaired area is also a
consideration . Replacement pins are available ...

[Snag]

  My neighbor has asked me to build up a worn spot on the drive pin of
his framing nailer . I'm not sure what model it is . The pin has wear on
the flat side at the tip , and it appears to be from sliding against the
head of the next nail in line . I'm considering using SS for better
abrasion resistance . The pin is not particularly hard , can be marked
with a file , but "mushrooming" in the repaired area is also a
consideration . Replacement pins are available ...

I decided to go with the ER70S6 , followed by case hardening . Turns
out it is actually quite hard as-welded - might actually need to be
tempered - so I skipped the case hardening . I'm waiting for a call back
from the neighbor since I kinda melted a sharp corner and it's going to
be a bitch to try to build up - this thing is only about 3/8" in
diameter with a flat on one side . I can cut that bit off if taking off
a sixteenth will be acceptable . Most of these nail guns have a depth
setting so I'm thinking it won't be a problem to shorten it but I want
to check with him to be sure .

[David Billington]

   My neighbor has asked me to build up a worn spot on the drive pin of
his framing nailer . I'm not sure what model it is . The pin has wear on
the flat side at the tip , and it appears to be from sliding against the
head of the next nail in line . I'm considering using SS for better
abrasion resistance . The pin is not particularly hard , can be marked
with a file , but "mushrooming" in the repaired area is also a
consideration . Replacement pins are available ...

  I decided to go with the ER70S6 , followed by case hardening . Turns
out it is actually quite hard as-welded - might actually need to be
tempered - so I skipped the case hardening . I'm waiting for a call
back from the neighbor since I kinda melted a sharp corner and it's
going to be a bitch to try to build up - this thing is only about 3/8"
in diameter with a flat on one side . I can cut that bit off if taking
off a sixteenth will be acceptable . Most of these nail guns have a
depth setting so I'm thinking it won't be a problem to shorten it but
I want to check with him to be sure .

If a spare part is available then I would use that unless prohibitively
expensive. What sort of welder are you using. I refurbish glassblowing
jacks occasionally using a TIG welder and O1 as filler and that leaves
quite a hard deposit that I temper once built up to the required level.
It's like welding on the edge of a blunt knife blade and worthwhile
considering what new ones cost so long as they haven't worn so much it's
beyond saving.

[Jim Wilkins]

...

If a spare part is available then I would use that unless prohibitively
expensive. What sort of welder are you using. I refurbish glassblowing
jacks occasionally using a TIG welder and O1 as filler and that leaves
quite a hard deposit that I temper once built up to the required level.
It's like welding on the edge of a blunt knife blade and worthwhile
considering what new ones cost so long as they haven't worn so much it's
beyond saving.

----------------------------

I built up and ground down the edge of a splitting maul my uncle had used to
chip a lump off the granite front step. Wrecking the tool was preferable to
displeasing his mother. A 7" angle grinder dressed the weld neatly and
easily.

[Snag]

Post by David Billington

   My neighbor has asked me to build up a worn spot on the drive pin of
his framing nailer . I'm not sure what model it is . The pin has wear on
the flat side at the tip , and it appears to be from sliding against the
head of the next nail in line . I'm considering using SS for better
abrasion resistance . The pin is not particularly hard , can be marked
with a file , but "mushrooming" in the repaired area is also a
consideration . Replacement pins are available ...

  I decided to go with the ER70S6 , followed by case hardening . Turns
out it is actually quite hard as-welded - might actually need to be
tempered - so I skipped the case hardening . I'm waiting for a call
back from the neighbor since I kinda melted a sharp corner and it's
going to be a bitch to try to build up - this thing is only about 3/8"
in diameter with a flat on one side . I can cut that bit off if taking
off a sixteenth will be acceptable . Most of these nail guns have a
depth setting so I'm thinking it won't be a problem to shorten it but
I want to check with him to be sure .

If a spare part is available then I would use that unless prohibitively
expensive. What sort of welder are you using. I refurbish glassblowing
jacks occasionally using a TIG welder and O1 as filler and that leaves
quite a hard deposit that I temper once built up to the required level.
It's like welding on the edge of a blunt knife blade and worthwhile
considering what new ones cost so long as they haven't worn so much it's
beyond saving.

I'm using an Everlast Powertig 250EX set at 25 amps with 15CFM argon
shield . I cut up a soda can to help keep shield gas on the part .
Filler was 3 .030" strands of ER70S6 solid MIG wire twisted together .

[Bob La Londe]

  My neighbor has asked me to build up a worn spot on the drive pin of
his framing nailer . I'm not sure what model it is . The pin has wear on
the flat side at the tip , and it appears to be from sliding against the
head of the next nail in line . I'm considering using SS for better
abrasion resistance . The pin is not particularly hard , can be marked
with a file , but "mushrooming" in the repaired area is also a
consideration . Replacement pins are available ...

Sounds like its done.

I once sat down to make a new box shaped blade clamp for a Craftsman
reciprocating saw. (Like a Sawszall.) I had picked out a piece of
metal, started taking measurements, and headed in to the computer to
model it up... a couple days later the brand new replacement part
arrived in a mail and it was only a couple dollars. It wasn't critical
to have it that day. I already had a newer Milwaukee SuperSawszall if I
needed one. I just hated having a useless tool on the shelf.

I agree that ordering the part was probably cheaper than the value of
your time, but to everybody else... there is some value to having your
neighbor "owe you one."

[Snag]

Post by Bob La Londe

   My neighbor has asked me to build up a worn spot on the drive pin
of his framing nailer . I'm not sure what model it is . The pin has
wear on the flat side at the tip , and it appears to be from sliding
against the head of the next nail in line . I'm considering using SS
for better abrasion resistance . The pin is not particularly hard ,
can be marked with a file , but "mushrooming" in the repaired area is
also a consideration . Replacement pins are available ...

Sounds like its done.
I once sat down to make a new box shaped blade clamp for a Craftsman
reciprocating saw.  (Like a Sawszall.)  I had picked out a piece of
metal, started taking measurements, and headed in to the computer to
model it up...  a couple days later the brand new replacement part
arrived in a mail and it was only a couple dollars.  It wasn't critical
to have it that day. I already had a newer Milwaukee SuperSawszall if I
needed one.  I just hated having a useless tool on the shelf.
I agree that ordering the part was probably cheaper than the value of
your time, but to everybody else... there is some value to having your
neighbor "owe you one."

There are half a dozen of us here in The Holler that trade materials
and favors all the time . Nobody keeps track .

[Jim Wilkins]

"Snag" wrote in message news:v7p1h8$1bem4$***@dont-email.me...

There are half a dozen of us here in The Holler that trade materials
and favors all the time . Nobody keeps track .
Snag

--------------------------

Same here, though after a neighbor passed 80 it became less Trade and more
Charity.